I'm not ripping it out that's for sure, it's in there for life and there is no doubt that it's made everything stronger by acting as a filler and completing the geometry of shapes & forms.
I've looked up a few examples of boat and aircraft work, this is what I found...............
Micro's used as body filler (no layering or infusion of cloth) prior to filling primer, primer and finish paint.
Micros used with fiberglass cloth overlay while curing. This example was for construction of a plug/mold and not the final part.
I know that cars, boats and a few hovercraft have been created with shot or spray glass in lieu of superior had laying of fiberglass cloth or mat. I think this method uses "strands" wetted with resin. I has strength, but ends up being heavier and not as strong as hand laying, plus suffers from inconsistent material thickness.
Mostly I've used the micros as filler over wood and to fill small gaps. I'm just going to resin over those areas as there is no strength issue, the substrate wood (and alum.) is doing the work.
Where I have a concern for strength and wanted to avoid 90 degree fiberglass bends is the two lengths of about 16 inches long extensions of aluminum tube landing skids which received the 45 degree fillet of micro filler. I plan to lay fiberglass over this area for any lateral forces it might incur. The geometry is set up so that the wide part of the pad with wood filler should always received lateral (sideways) impact first, which I don't think will ever occur at any great speed (I don't race).
After using the micro's (bubbles & ballons) in different thickness/consistancies ranging from toothpaste to playdough and finding out after the fact that I can use micros with the cloth pressed into it, I think working upside down would go very well with the micros. Using micro fillers in a thicker playdough like state it has a great deal of stick and should easily hold up the weight of a light weight cloth pressed into it - at least for the odd shapes and angles I'm dealing with on my landing pads.
For larger flatter areas I'm about to find out.
I just did some upside down repair work. I normally do it this way.
1. Get 2 inch thick rubber foam slightly larger than the patch.
2. Cover foam with clear plastic.
3. Put wet glass on plastic.
4. Put flat board under foam.
5. Hold the whole assembly up against the bottom with a jack system of appropriate height.
6. Raise jack until foam compresses wet glass hard against the hull in a uniform fashion.
By the way, what is your goal with such extensive mods? I sorta get the plowplane at the bow but what about the stern? Just curious.
EDIT: Pictures...........needs sanding and coat of fiberglass cloth.
Not going for looks or finish awards under here obviously. http://s184.photobuc...s/x295/kach22i/